I used to be known as a sponger "bodyboarder for you landlubbers" but was talked into trying surfing
by a bro of mine. I guess it took a bit of time to take hold but as of yesterday on our Doheney trip,
I got hooked. There is something great, spiritual almost about standing on a board and riding waves in that I have only gotten in one other place. I have never felt this way other than when I have been
skydiving. Waves were only about 3-4 yesterday but it was good enough for my bro's longboard. Caught plenty of waves and just generally had a really good day off. Planning on getting a big group together this weekend so we can just go kick it on the beach and goof off for a bit. It is true about things that you love. Even a bad day doing " " is better than a great day at work.
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